Chickens are one of the most-consumed animal products in the world today. Not only do they provide meat, but they also offer eggs that are essential in many dishes and baked goods.
In the past, chickens were primarily farm animals. Today, they have transitioned to become a backyard addition in cities around the world. Some are even treated as pets.
Although life has improved for many of these birds as factory farms have become less popular, that change has also led to more people wondering about the health of their birds.
Here are some ways to tell if your chickens have gotten too large, or if they aren’t putting on enough weight.
How Can I Tell If My Chickens Are Too Fat or Thin?
When chickens gain too much weight, they are unable to move or roost in expected ways. The birds tend to sit on the ground as if they are nesting, including roosters, to limit movement. When a chicken is too thin, you’ll see more bone structure and longer flight times for breeds that maintain their flying instincts.
Beyond visual cues, the easiest way to determine if a chicken has too much or too little weight is to check for the breastbone. It will stick out prominently when the bird hasn’t gained enough weight.
If you cannot feel the breastbone at all, the chicken has likely gained more weight than needed during its early years.
Although weight isn’t a significant issue for most small farms and hobbyists, it can impact the health of the bird in unexpected ways when it appears.
- When chickens carry too much weight, they become more susceptible to heat stroke, hemorrhaging, and fatty liver disease.
- If they don’t have enough weight, the metabolic cycles for the bird may not function as expected.
- When the weight fluctuates between the two extremes, the physical stresses can trigger behavioral problems in some individual birds.
The best way to control the weight of chickens is to provide regular feed, an outdoor area for exercise, and limit treats.
What If My Chickens Don’t Want to Eat?
The most common reason for some chickens to appear thin is bullying within the coop. There is a literal pecking order in chicken society.
Older birds often pick on younger ones to get the best feed. When one chicken is weak or sickly, it cannot fight for the food it needs to get better. You can also experience this issue when introducing new hens into the coop.
Physical injuries also put chickens off their feed. This issue typically involves a digestive problem or a leg injury.
Chickens will eat almost anything they can find within their backyard or enclosure. Some plants are poisonous, so they’ll need to be removed before fencing in the area. Tulips, daffodils, Rhodies, nightshade, and morning glories tend to be the most significant contributors to this issue.
People can also cause unintentional illnesses when feeding chickens the wrong food. Pasta and rice should not be offered.
Stress, parasites, and illnesses can also contribute to chickens refusing to eat. Some issues may require veterinarian evaluation and care.
Home Is Where the Stomach Is for Chickens
Chickens require a protected space to feel safe. Without this asset in their lives, the stress of finding food and avoiding predators can be strong enough to change physical habits.
Some chickens might not move at all, which can trigger obesity-related issues. Others refuse to eat, causing them to become too thin.
When you have a protective chicken coop and run for them to use, you’ll eliminate the threats that change behaviors. The best spaces have enough room to exercise, locked access to the environment, and comfortable nesting places to use.
Best Chicken Coop to Use for the Backyard
The PawHut 44-Inch Chicken Coop provides a wooden house with a hen run below to give a couple of backyard birds a safe place to call home. The product is made with fir wood to create a natural foundation, while the construction adds a bit of charm to the yard. A flower box to the side of it could be used for growing some vegetables.
The coop features enough space for two chickens. It uses an asphalt roof to provide weather protection for the birds, while a slide-out tray collects the waste from the house directly to make cleaning it simple and easy.
Even if you have a small backyard, this chicken coop is compact enough to fit while providing safe places for scrounging, scratching, and other necessary behaviors to keep weight at optimal levels.
Best Large Chicken Run for Backyards
If you have more space in your backyard, you can provide your chickens with a large run that gives them more protected exercise.
You could even build a coop inside the Polar Aurora Store Large Metal Chicken Cage to create a space for roughly 8-12 birds.
It comes with a walk-in gate you can lock, a shaded area for those hot days, and enough durability to provide long-term support.
It doesn’t take long to put together this run with its quick-connect frame design. The tubes are galvanized to prevent corrosion. PVC-coated hexagonal wire mesh creates the walls to stop the chickens from leaving and the predators from getting in there.
Best Chicken Feeder to Prevent Weight Issues
Once you have a home ready for your chickens, you’ll want to take steps to automate your chores. These birds can require a lot of attention when manually feeding and watering them. That’s why the RentACoop Six-Port All-Weather Poultry Feeder is an excellent addition to your coop or run.
This bin holds 65 pounds of feed while providing multiple eating stations for your birds. They can graze at convenient times, allowing you to support the health of even those at the lowest end of the pecking order.
Should I Worry If My Chickens Are Too Fat or Too Thin?
Although weight issues can impact a chicken’s health, it’s also an easily correctible issue. Review feeding patterns, water access, exercise space, and treat access to ensure there is a foundation of care present. If bullying is the primary cause of a weight issue, exclude the problematic bird from the coop.
There was this rooster on our farm while growing up that was the meanest bird you ever met in your life. Geese have a reputation for being aggressive, but they had nothing on this guy.
He’d hear you approach the coop, waiting right behind the door, and fly out to attack your face.
His hens always got first access to the food, so they tended to be on the larger side. The other two roosters were kicked out of the coop into the run, but if you poured food out there, he’d just attack again and switch spots.
Everything changed one day when I put the food outside for the other chickens. He ran outside, raised his wings, and then got one stuck in the door. His stuck wing whiplashed him around, and he smashed face-first into the coop wall.
For about 20 minutes, he just stared up at the sky like it was falling. When he tried to walk, he staggered. The vet said it was a severe concussion.
It became apparent that this mean rooster had lost the ability to protect himself. His place on the pecking order went all the way to the bottom. It reached the point where he couldn’t get any food for himself and got too thin.
That’s how the meanest rooster ever became the barn pet. He stole some of the grain from the cows while we milked, and he lived out his life asking for pets from everyone.
Most chickens self-regulate their weight. When you see issues develop, act immediately to ensure your birds are healthy and strong.